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What was called Lower Poitou before the Revolution now makes up the

département of Vendée, composed of the two very different zones that are

inland and coastal Vendée. Inland Vendée is a land of hills and low mountains

that prolongs the Armorican massif, before it plunges into the wetlands of the

Marais Poitevin, west of Niort. The Marais is a unique and magical landscape

made up of polders, or swamps reclaimed from the sea. The effort began far

back in the eleventh century, when the abbey of Maillezais was founded on an

outcrop of limestone for the express purpose of draining the land and making

it arable (the ruins of the Romanesque abbey church can be visited today).

Known as the Venise verte or “green Venice,” the Marais Poitevin is

crisscrossed by a maze of canals, which visitors can explore in flat-bottomed

boats that leave from Coulon, on the River Sèvre. The drier, eastern portions

of the Marais Poitevin support livestock, especially beef cattle. Industrialized

towns are few in Vendée: Cholet, famous for its printed handkerchiefs,

Fontenay-le-Comte (also home to the Musée Vendéen), and the meat-packing

center of Parthenay all share the discreet charm of sleepy provincial towns.

 

Coastal Vendée bears little resemblance to the interior. Its long stretch of shore is punctuated with port towns that once enjoyed considerable renown, like Les Sables-d'Olonne. Nowadays, the oyster and mussel beds of the Bourgneuf and Aiguillon bays, seashells collected for sale, and sea salt gathered from salt marshes are the area's chief

resources. Away from the coast, vegetable growers cultivate carrots, lettuces, garlic, beans and potatoes on small truck farms. This produce rarely leaves the region, but along with ducks from Challans, butter from Charentes, and fresh seafood from local waters, it makes the markets of Vendée a food lover's dream.

The booming tourism industry has changed the face of coastal Vendée in the past 25 years. More than 180 miles of beaches and a

sunny climate attract holiday-makers from all over Europe to Saint-Jean-de-Mont, Les Sables-d'Olonne and the islands of Yeu and Noirmoutier

 

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